Trackick Disc Brake Conversion Bracket, One Pair
Trackick Disc Brake Conversion Bracket, One Pair
Trackick Disc Brake Conversion Bracket, One Pair
Trackick Disc Brake Conversion Bracket, One Pair
Trackick Disc Brake Conversion Bracket, One Pair
Trackick Disc Brake Conversion Bracket, One Pair
Trackick Disc Brake Conversion Bracket, One Pair
Trackick Disc Brake Conversion Bracket, One Pair

Trackick Disc Brake Conversion Bracket, One Pair

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Note: In stock 

One Pair. These conversion brackets adapt the caliper and rotor, from a Geo Tracker or Suzuki Sidekick, to early Willys and Jeep axles. My conversion works on front axles from 1941 to 1986 front axles including Willys MB, Ford GPW, Willys CJ2A, Willys CJ3A/B, CJ5, CJ6, CJ7, CJ8, Jeepster, Commando, FC, Wagons, Pickups, Postal Jeeps, and others. This conversion also works on rear axles up to approx 1970 that have the same 6-bolt bearing retainer pattern as the front axle, this includes most universal style Willys and Jeep products that did not have an e-brake on the rear axle. These brackets are laser cut from 1/4" thick steel HRPO plate steel.

-Included Parts

2 - Trackick Disc Brake Conversion Brackets

4 - Caliper Offset Spacers

4 - Caliper Mounting Bolts

Please read through my technical notes for the Trackick Disc Brake Conversion.
-Use 1995 or earlier Geo Tracker/Suzuki Sidekick front rotors and calipers/caliper mount/pads (These are available at any parts house or online at places like Rock Auto ). This kit is designed around using the NON-vented rotor and caliper.

GEO TRACKER 1989-1995
SUZUKI SJ410 1983-1984

GEO TRACKER 1989-1995
GMC TRACKER1989-1991
SUZUKI X-90 1996-1995

Note: You can also use the later vented 4-door rotor and caliper. ( 1996-97 4-Door Geo Tracker or Suzuki Sidekick only ) 

-The rotor goes OVER the wheel bearing hub similar to later drum/disc systems. On the early D25/27 front axle you will have to press the studs out to remove the factory drum and then reinstall new studs. A D23 rear axle will be the same as the early front axle (press studs out, replace without drum ). The D41/44 rear has the drum brake on the outside of the flange and there is no need to press out the studs. A dana 30 front axle will have the drum on the outside of the flange also, no need to remove the studs. Please be aware that some studs where swaged in place at the factory and need to be cut out.

-My conversion bracket goes OVER the spindle just like the stock drum brake backing plate did. In a rear D41/44 application with 2pc axles the my bracket goes between the bearing retainer and dust shield.

-You may need to chamfer the ID of the center hole of the bracket to clear the machined corner radius on the spindle step. A file or 4" flap wheel works fine for this. You want to make sure the bracket has no air gap behind it. Note: I have elected not to perform this operation on my end. I have had people clock the brackets into a different position front vs rear and side to side to help clear shocks, steering, etc. The caliper should be positioned with the bleed screw at the top whenever possible.

-I use 1/4" HRPO steel for the brackets. If you go thicker the spindle studs/bolts start to get in the way of the bearing hub. You can use the stock spindle studs and nuts typically. On early axles with bolts retaining the spindle you may need longer grade 8 units. Torque to factory spec.

-The holes in the rotors for the wheel studs need to be drilled out to match the wheel stud shoulder. It is best to measure your parts. The most common is a stud shoulder of .609 which matches a 39/64 drill bit. A good hand drill works fine. I have seen the register being up to .614" in some cases if they have been swaged or replaced with larger studs.

-Now included, the caliper bolts are M12, 1.25mm pitch x ~25 mm long, flange head 10.9 metric bolts for the caliper mounting (I recommend using Loctite 243 blue as a minimum along with approx. 60 ft/lbs torque with 10.9 fasteners ).

-You need a shim/bushing to offset the OEM caliper mount from my bracket. Depending on the bearing hub (or rear axle) is should be about 5/16"/.313"thick. (Note: These are now provided with each bracket) I have had the odd setup happen where this shim is the wrong thickness. This typically only happens when you mix and match the hub/spindle/axle flange between different versions.

-The brake hose fitting on the caliper end needs to be a 10mm banjo style (I use 1985 Honda accord front brake hoses on my flatty and they transition to hard lines at the frame). The best option currently for a 'to axle' brake line is a front brake line from a RWD GM S10 pickup 1991-99 This will work on the front of any axle where the line does not go to the frame. You can also use these on rear axles for a soft
line before to transition to the hard line.

Application cross for the ‘S10’ brake line
GMC JIMMY 1992-1997
GMC S15 JIMMY 1991
GMC SONOMA 1991-1999
ISUZU HOMBRE 1996-2000

Part numbers include.
Napa 381065
SUNSONG 2201074
CENTRIC 15066055
ACDELCO 18J1111 {#18032822, 19174039}

-Be sure to use the appropriate banjo bolt and crush washers. The calipers are threaded M10-1.0

Note- While the Tracker/Sidekick came with a 15" steel wheel from the factory, not all wheels are created equal. Early Willys Jeep 15" wheels will commonly require a spacer to help the folded ( and often riveted ) center to clear the caliper. There is also at least one of the 5-6 known stampings on early 16" wheels that can also have an interface issue. I encourage everyone to do a full mock-up of the wheel combo you would like to use before you get too far into the process. I also suggest using a longer stud whenever practical to give you as many options down the road if you do consider changing the wheel/tire combo.

Please let me know if you have any more questions

Brennan Metcalf