Note: In Stock again
3/8 Thick, 5 on 5.5 lug pattern, Steel Wheel Spacer, One pairEarly Jeep wheels from the 1940-60s where never designed to work with a disc brake package. In the majority of cases the stock wheels, and most modern SAE spec 15-16" wheels work just fine. Unfortunately, there are a few wheels that just don't play well with disc brake conversions.
The most notable are the following.
-1940-50s Jeep Universal, Factory option, 15" wheels
-1940-50s Jeep Universal, 'Dimple' 16" wheels
-1940s, Military GPW/MB, 2pc Combat Wheels
These 3/8" thick wheel spacers, when used with longer wheel studs, can help solve many of these wheel fitment issues without the need for wider double stud aluminum spacers where you cannot easily check the inner stud torque. That helps maintain the stock look and feel of your classic Jeep.
These spacers are precision CNC laser cut from solid steel HRPO plate, and weigh a hefty 2lbs plus EACH. These are not cheap questionable aluminum units that will leave you wondering how long things will hold together.
I have chosen NOT to include longer wheel studs with these spacers for one major reason, with my disc brake conversion spanning 40 years of production, there just isn't one answer. The wheel studs used by Jeep, not only change by year, but also with use, replacement, and depending on what wheels you want to use. Below is all the information I have accumulated on the various options for wheel studs. All the below data is referencing using my Trackick (or EEbrake) disc brake conversions with a slip on style Geo Tracker or Suzuki Sidekick rotor.
Early Jeep Wheel Studs, 1941-1986
1941-1971 Jeep Universal
These Jeeps, and others in this year range, typically used a 0.618" diameter Knurled 1/2-20 stud that was 1.375" long under the shouldered head. These where often swaged in place to capture the brake drum.
The longest stud, with a suitable shoulder, I have found to date with a 0.618" knurl in 1/2-20 is the Dorman 610-260 at 1.813" long.
If your stud holes feel just a touch loose with a normal stud, there are 0.619 options that are longer. ( these also seem to work in stock hubs if you use a press to install them ). The Dorman 610-290 and 610-480 ( Allstar All44112 ) are both just over 2" long total. The shoulder may be just a touch long and could protrude through the bearing hub and rotor slightly. Check during mock-up.
The next step up would be 0.620 knurl studs for a very loose stud hole. There is the Dorman 610-379 at 1.938" long or the Dorman 610-106 at 1.813" long. There is also a dirt track style stud from Cal Custom, CAL-910104 that is 3.25" long with a shoulder short enough that the rotor doesn't have to be drilled out typically.
Beyond this point, it would be best to ream the holes out to use the later model 0.625 knurl studs selections below.
When using longer wheel studs and a closed lug nut, be sure that the stud is not bottoming out inside.
1971.5-1986 Jeep Universal
These Jeeps, and others in this year range, typically used a 0.625" diameter Knurled 1/2-20 stud that was 1.625" long under the shouldered head. The drum brakes in these years typically used a slip on style brake drum.
The next longest stud for the stock 0.625" knurl is the Dorman 610-080 which is 1.938" long. This stud does have a longer 'blank' section between the shouldered knurl and threaded portion. The shoulder is short enough that the brake rotor does not need to be drilled out. The 'blank' section may prevent the lug nut from getting tight when used WITHOUT a spacer depending on the wheel.
There are multiple 0.625 knurl racing studs that are 3" long. ARP 100-7703, Moser Engineering 8010, Mildon 86155. These are all short shoulder studs that allow the rotor to go on unmodified. These are long enough that they can be a bit obnoxious and will require open lug nuts. They can be trimmed down also to make any length you want.
There is a 0.627" knurl option for loose stud holes. Dorman 610-449 is 1.938" long.
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